Archive for the 'Boquete Life' Category
The Clay-Coloured Thrush is the bully of the Boquete Garden Inn bird feeder. Drunk on power and yesterday’s fermented fruit, he lurches from statue to statue, hopping and stomping on everybody’s breakfast, sending chunks of banana, pineapple and papaya flying to the ground. When one of the smaller birds attempts to share the feeder with the thrush, he chases them off with an urgent chirp, flap of wings and indignant flash of eyes.
Fittingly, his Latin name is Turdus grayi, or, as I call him, Little Turd.
Clay-Coloured Thrush at Boquete Garden Inn’s Breakfast with the Birds
He is the national bird of Costa Rica, which always baffles guests: why choose such a plain bird to be your country’s avian representative, especially when you have so many glitzy specimens to choose from?
A few reasons: The Yigüirro, as he’s called in Costa Rica, tends to live close by, in gardens and near people, so he’s a familiar, friendly little face featured in many Costa Rican folk tales and songs. The males also have a pretty tune they sing when trying to woo ladybirds during mating season. Traditionally, Costa Rican farmers listened for this song of longing – considering it to be the first sign of rainy season.
Boquete Garden Inn: The perfect place to stay for birding in Boquete Panama! Join the Clay-Coloured Thrush for Boquete Garden Inn’s Breakfast with the Birds (gaining in popularity among humans and birds alike!) And don’t worry: he’s actually quite friendly with people.
Last year, I wrote a post about our office manager Danny and how he scaled the mighty Volcan Baru! And I vowed that I, too, would climb Volcan Baru. I set a deadline of March 31, 2014. Well, I did it! And I forgot to brag about it on here (!)
Climbing Volcan Baru, Boquete Panama
Volcan Baru, Boquete Panama
It looks like Copa Airlines is trying to get into the regional airline business in Panama. Here’s hoping! A second airline will introduce much needed competition, more flights and, hopefully, better rates.
Look for updates here!
Small towns in Latin America seem to be all about the central park: It’s where people gather, gossip and peddle their wares (stories, products and otherwise). In larger cities, you can choose from multiple plazas, with street performers, shoe shiners and weird mumble-y men selling coca-marijuana tea. As I drank coffee, shopped for cathedral candles and people watched in multiple parks across Ecuador, I thought about our little square in Boquete.
Boquete, in recent years, has lacked a beautiful, welcoming, truly central, central park. Two of the roads surrounding it are closed to traffic. One side of the square houses the mayor’s office, the opposite, the main road. So we really only have two streets leading to the park, and they fall short. And the actual park itself has, frankly, been an eyesore. (Highlights: Weird, modern building-block fountain and the truly impressive statue of Spinal Tap proportions, seen below). But this seems to be changing. The new(ish) mayor, Sr. Millo Vasquez, is working on creating a central park that we can be proud of.
‘Frog Perched on Coffee Plant’ or ‘Jabba the Hutt Attempts to Contain his Entrails.’ Photo courtesy of Lee Zeltzer, Boquete Guide blog.
I’ve heard that Sr. Millo is ripping out the modern fountain and I don’t remember seeing Jabba yesterday. The mayor also had the concrete seating painted a soft green (sounds odd, looks good), getting rid of the garish orange. And the park is now awash with plants and flowers that are alive and not potted in old tires or sewer pipes (true story). And local artist, Chalo, (blog post on this eccentric, tree-top dwelling artist forthcoming) is setting to work on an elaborate wood sculpture. (During rainy season we lost some trees to high winds). His sculptures are well known across Boquete. He works with trees that have to be taken down due to disease or high winds and transforms the trunks into his own version of a totem pole.
It was a welcome site on my first day back in Boquete: It was as if I clicked my heels and got myself the makings of a new central park.
Part of the carving..Boquete Central Park
I take this Boquete hiking trail most Sundays with my wonderful animal stalker friends, Bill and Lynne. The Waterfall Trail in Boquete is gently sloped, so not too strenuous and it delivers on stunning views and an abundance of wildlife. This Boquete hiking trail is also the Quetzal nightclub of Boquete: all the boy quetzals gather here, coyly letting their tail feathers swing, luring in the ladybirds. Finding this trail can often be confusing: it used to be called the Pipeline Trail, plus, there’s another excellent trail close by with a similar name, The Lost Waterfalls (our next featured trail – stay tuned!). You know you’ve got the correct trail if you see this sign:
This is the trail we recommend most often when guests ask us where to go. For plenty of reasons:
Quetzals! You have the greatest chance of spotting a Quetzal on this Boquete hiking trail. You further increase your odds if you have a skilled guide with you. We can arrange this at check in. Most tours pick up at the hotel at 8:00-8:30 a.m. or 1:30 p.m. and the hike lasts about 3.5 hours. The cost is approximately $40 per person.
Quetzal on the Waterfall Trail, August 2014. Photo courtesy of John from Boquete Custom Tours.
The Really Old Tree: Yes, that’s the official name of the 1,400 year old tree that has withstood two eruptions of Volcan Baru (you can see two distinct indentations in the trunk). The tree is off to the left of the main trail (not the first left fork at the beginning of the trail…that’s where the bee colony is. Don’t go there). You’ll see the tree from the main trail. You’ll also see a lot of people with binoculars pressed to their faces, mouths slightly ajar hovering in the vicinity – it’s prime quetzal country due to the abundance of aguacatillos, also called mini-avacados, or, quetzal crack cocaine.
The Waterfall! At the end of the trail, you’ll see a stunning waterfall. Tip: Don’t stand directly under the water, trying to recreate an Irish Spring moment. Landslides/tumble-y rocks a distinct possibility, especially in rainy season. Admire from a distance.
Wildlife: I’ve seen quetzales, toucanettes (you’re picturing a toucan in a blonde wig and smurf hat, aren’t you?), howler monkeys, a sloth, baby tinamou (he hiked with me for a spell). Lynne and Bill have seen: the above, plus, a weasel, peccary, coatimundi, armadillo, deer, olingo, cacomistle, porcupine, opossum, agouti, capuchin monkey.
Photo courtesy of Bill Fox!
Another Bill photo!
The drive up to the trail: The Bajo Mono loop road is spectacular. You can make a whole day of it: stop at the crazy rock formation, waterfalls, abandoned ‘castle’, stop in at Fresas Cafe for a fresa batido (strawberry milkshake), drive through farm country and breathe in the smell of green onions. We provide a great map with all the landmarks. Ask us about it before you hit the road and we can give you some tips!
You’ll see this on the way up to Bajo Mono.Climbers not guaranteed.
Safety first! This trail features a lovely woman named Janeth who collects $3 from each hiker to cross her family’s land. She also takes note of who enters the trail and who exits—which is always a good thing.
Trail: The Waterfall Trail
Location: Up the Bajo Mono loop road – ask at our front desk for a map!
Time: 2 – 3 hours (depends on how often you stop to shoot photos)
Pros: Beautiful views, quetzals and other wildlife, waterfall
Cons: Lots of people on it in high season
I decided to improve my Spanish and Boquete celebrated with a parade! The woman in the foreground looks skeptical.
If you decide to move to Boquete Panama, learning Spanish is crucial. And respectful. It will make your life easier and your time here more fulfilling. How else will you meet your neighbours? Make friends? Understand Boquete news, politics, what’s going on in town? Take it from me: the half-baked approach to the Spanish language can only take you so far.
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So why did I finally commit? I am embarrassed. Panamanian guests of Boquete Garden Inn (and guests from other Spanish-speaking countries) ask me how long I’ve lived here and I chirp proudly, “Almost six years!” Eyebrows raise and there’s an awkward silence. Because my Spanish is all mangled and in present tense and ugly (less so now after three weeks of classes). I blink and say ‘No entiendo’ way more than I should. (At least I don’t commit the ultimate expat cardinal sin: peppering sentences with occasional Spanish words (usually alcohol-related), as in “The cuenta, por favor! And don’t forget, Leo: I only had two Ron Abuelos! The rest were cervezas!”
I decided to take Spanish at Habla Ya Panama Spanish Schools. I was placed in Intermediate Level B1 conversational Spanish. My professor, Leidys Pitti, is patient, kind and excellent at her job: smiling sweetly at every um, ahh and Spanglified fake word I throw into conversation after I’ve exhausted my vocabulary. And when I stammer out something horribly inappropriate, she doesn’t blink an eye. She simply corrects me and we move on.
Dedicating four hours a day/five days a week to Spanish is the best decision I’ve made. It’s easy to say you’re going to practice Spanish in your free time, but unless you are extremely dedicated and disciplined, it just won’t happen. I planned to watch Destinos every night (funny, cheesy ’90s language program masquerading as a Telenovela). Same with clicking through Rosetta Stone, the Sesame St of adult language programs. Same with tackling the workbooks stacked up on my desk. Did I? Nope.
Going to class. Completing written assignments. Watching videos, listening to podcasts. Speaking not only to the teacher, but other students, solely in Spanish. It’s so important. And the key benefit to taking group classes? Fellow classmates and your teachers keep you accountable. You have to complete assignments on time and focus in class – or else you hold everyone back.
My Spanish is still ugly. And I still blink stupidly. But I’m working to change that. Next update? In English and Spanish.